I love it when the table turns. Recently, legendary siren
of Thai street food, Nym Korokat Punlopruska guided me through the streets of
Bangkok for great food. If you know much about Bangkok street food, or have
watched Andrew Zimmern eat his way through it, you’ve seen Nym. She was in
Singapore this week, so now it was my turn. And I knew a place that is so new
it couldn’t possibly be in her excellent food guide, but so exceptional that it
needs to be.
The fabulous Nym Punlopruska |
Ravi, Nym & Jeera water at every table |
Walking into Arcot Nawab Restaurant, Nym immediately
sensed something different from the sea of other Indian restaurants. The place
is small, bright and airy, with ocher walls and a pitcher of Jeera (cumin-seed)
water on every table. Owner Ravi Jayakaran greeted us at the door and at once
immersed us in a world of remarkable royal Indian cuisine unavailable elsewhere
in Singapore.
Upon the first sip of Vasantha Neer, a pale, fresh-scraped coconut
water infused with lemon, honey and mint on the rocks, Nym got her note pad
ready.
Nawabi & Nizam cuisines from the Hyderabad region of Southern India
are the specialty at Arcot Nawab, which opened less than a year ago. It is
cuisine once granted only to India’s finest chefs, esteemed in the art of
delicate Indian cuisine, to prepare for Mogul Empire royalty. But
this day, despite arriving unannounced and pulling everything straight off the
menu, we would be fed like royalty, too.
It started with Vallara Keerai, a seemingly simple soup
made of pennywort leaf reduced with pepper, garlic and onion to a smooth creamy
texture. This “brain food” delivered a deep earthy flavor, exotic in the first
instance, then quickly softening into a rich, herbaceous simplicity that luxuriated
on our tongues.
The Karuvepillai Prawn Varuval was firm and masala-tinged on the edges
with soft, sweet meat that frolicked with flavors of fried curry leaves and
delicate sesame oil. Don’t think “fried prawns” with this dish, as the marriage
of flavors and texture transforms this into something unique and wondrous; the
best of natural spices with the finest fare from the sea. It’s a must try.
But the star of Arcot Nawab’s
show was its namesake biryani. The similarity between other biryanis in
Singapore and this one – like a White Zinfindel in the shadow of Châtau Haut-Brion
– ends abruptly at the name. Arcot Biryani is a distinct rice-based dish; lighter and
more refined than more common biryani but packing a full-on spice punch that
puts all others to shame.
Cooked with mutton and Jeera Samba rice – a pleasing departure from the usual basmati
nuttiness – it came with a Brinjal curry and a red onion raita that delivered
an ultra-fresh yogurty sparkle. The biryani was robust, each kernel standing
independent and oil-free, encapsulating a well-integrated flavor and careful
balance of spice. But perhaps most compelling was its lightness of being. Unlike
the clumpy, heavyweight biryanis stomping and pummeling their way around Little
India, this was like a trim, featherweight fighter – each bite a quick, crisp
jab of intense flavor, leaving no oily residue on the palate. Neat and clean.
The meal continued, Ravi
steering us through a maze of royal classics. Like raw bittergourd diced with
tomato and onion and brightened by a spritz of fresh lemon from a vegan
selection. The bitter green bite of the crunchy veg was tempered by the lemony
tinge and tomato sweetness to render a refreshing, uncommon salad.
We had Rasam, so deep and complex, with the chef’s hand light on the
tamarind, ginger, lime and asafoetida, in order to avoid bitterness against the
pepper, curry leaves, soft onion and pineapple within. Its seductive aroma and taste
necessitated my drinking it all directly from the silver cup in which it came.
The Meen Kothu Idiyappa, was a blend of spicy cooked fish, minced and
scrambled with crumbled idiyappam
noodles, gentle spices and crisp-fried mint leaves. Its soft and pleasing
texture and delicate if-not-curious combination somehow works together,
intermingling seamlessly into a comfort food that’s light as a feather and
instantly soothing to eat.
A tiny silver pot of dried
lentils roasted with garlic, dry chilies and sesame seeds, all ground into a
talcum-fine orange powder was set before us. A matching tin of Indian sesame
oil – a complete departure from the ubiquitous Chinese version found here – and
a plate of white basmati rice came beside it. Nym dusted the rice with the
powder, I followed with a drizzle of sesame oil and mixed. The yellowish blend
delivered a clean, ancient flavor, blossoming like a lotus flower in the morning
sun. Each component whispered its presence in the rice, but then transformed
into something more delicious than merely the sum of its parts and harkened
back to a centuries-old flavor profile.
Closing the feast was Payasam, a cooling milk pudding with
sage and vermicelli, along with a warm
chai infused with sarsaparilla root, and ending with a barely-sweet vanilla
bean ice cream sprinkled with hand-candied ginger bits to relax our digestive
systems.
Ravi's passion for his food is contagious |
For each dish Ravi had a
passionate explanation of its history and what makes it special enough to serve
here. His philosophy is not just to serve outstanding food – which he does
better than perhaps any other Indian restaurant in the neighborhood – but also
healthy dishes with no MSG, no additives and balanced for control of such
ailments as Diabetes. The result: light, delicate textures with intense,
infused flavors that don’t leave you feeling heavy and tired afterward. It was
truly a feast at this restaurant of royal food from the Kingdom of the Moguls.
Arcot Nawab Restaurant
49 Chander Road
Little India
Singapore
Little India
Singapore
Tel: 6392-1530