Tiong Bahru Foodwalk: Dining in the Den of Beauties.

Tiong Bahru is one of Singapore’s oldest housing development neighborhoods; an oasis of art deco buildings and culinary discoveries in an area that modern time forgot – until recently.

Once the desired living room of the upper-class, Tiong Bahru became infamous as the keeping place for mistresses of the rich and powerful, lending itself to the Mandarin label Mei Ren Wo (“Den of Beauties”). But the beauty here is not just skin deep; the architecture is also something to behold, with a mix of local Straits Chinese shophouses and art-deco structures with rounded balconies, flat rooftops and spiral staircases still in use today. Kind of like Miami's pre-gentrified South Beach with Chinese characteristics. 

All roads in this historic area lead to your foodwalk starting point: the famed Tiong Bahru Market. It’s the epicenter since 1955 of what feels distinctly like a compact village hidden deep within the towering development of the Lion City’s central district.  The first self-organized wet market in Singapore, this primarily-morning affair is still seen as a prime example of a well-designed center for excellent food.

Start your walk on the second level hawker center with a helping of chwee kueh at Jian Bo Shui Kueh (stall #02-05). The ladies there will slide tender, steamed rice cakes onto a sheet of paper, plop a dollop of radish sautéed with garlic, soy and herbs on top and slip a heaping spoon of dense, not-too-hot chili in the middle. It’s four for a buck and with just one bite you’ll understand why so many claim this to be the best on the island. 

Next, head down-stall to Tiong Bahru Pau (stall #02-18) and supplement breakfast with a fresh-made steamed pork bun, silky prawn dumpling and delicious shiu mai.

 And if that doesn’t tickle your taste buds, try a plate of roasted meats with rice at Original Tiong Bahru Golden Pig & Roasted (stall #02-68) or nearly any of the other hawkers up there – just look for the longest queue and you can't go wrong.

 

Downstairs in the wet market, wander the aisles of fish mongers on the far end, their catch neatly iced for maximum freshness. Off to one side comes multiple pork stalls – among the best in town – followed by fresh vegetables, eggs and fruit. On the other side of the market's grassy open courtyard is chicken, fishcakes, more vegetables and stalls of fresh cut orchids and other tropical flowers flashing optic in the morning sun.

As much as you’ll want to stay and enjoy the market, head out the main entrance to the intersection of Seng Poh and Eng Hoon streets. As you look around at the old-school architecture of this town center you may feel drawn to the opposing corner, where excellent curry rice with pork chop has been available since 1946 at Loo’s Hiananese Curry Rice (57 Eng Hoon St. #01-88). But make a left and work off your starter snack by walking down Lim Liak Street, passing orderly rows of low-rise housing, inviting lawns and coconut trees.

At the end, turn left onto Kim Pong Road, strolling along the green open space of Kim Tian Green. If a Chinese holiday is approaching chances are there will be a large theater assembled on the lawns - something worth coming back to in the evening to watch. 

As the road curves stay to the right on Yong Siak Street, where you re-enter rows of streamline-moderne flats offering an authentic throwback to neighborhoods of yesteryear, including Teck Kee Leong Huat general store (01-18 Yong Siak St.).

By now it’s time for a coffee or tea, and the groovy Forty Hands coffee shop near the corner of Chay Yan Street (78 Yong Siak St.) is just the place.  The vibe is mellow and inviting -- sort of like a Seattle coffee house before that label meant anything -- and the coffee is made with great care and respect for the forty hands required to bring it from seed to brilliant, steaming cup.

Head up to the corner and make a left. You’ll pass the oldest part of Tiong Bahru and the housing projects that inspired the successful HDB development scheme that is now emblematic to Singapore. Hang a right on Guan Chuan, then left down Tiong Poh Road. At the corner of Eng Hoon Street check out ninety year old Qi Tian Gong Temple, Singapore’s oldest temple honoring the Monkey God, who bestows blessings and protection, eliminates bad luck and grants longevity and prosperity. 

Stroll around Eng Hoon Street to see a mix of old and new cooking schools, shophouses, ancient sewing supply stores and a specialist egg seller. At the dead-end of the street is Foodie Market Place (225 Outram Rd.) a gourmet store where hard-to-find items, including fine cuts of meat, cheeses and an assortment of imported gourmet products not available in most stores can be found.

Back at Tiong Poh Road turn right, toward the corner of Tiong Poh and Tiong Bahru Road. A quick left onto Tiong Bahru Road brings you to Glacier Confectionery (Blk 55 Tiong Bahru Rd.) for colorful kueh, breads, coconut lapis and other Chinese desserts. You’ll want to sample a few and take home even more. 

After sating your sweet tooth, continue along Tiong Bahru Road to Sin Hoi Sai (55 Tiong Bahru Rd.) and survey the live seafood selections for a future cze cha diner feast. It's gone a little Hollywood in recent years, but even local foodie critics admit it's delicious. 

At the corner with Seng Poh, cross right to the yellow Tiong Bahru Bird Arena, where old Chinese guys spend early mornings hanging cages of songbirds and then drink kopi while quietly gambling over who's is the most melodic.

By now you may be getting hungry again (as if!), so walk back up Seng Poh toward the market. You'll pass the aforementioned Loo's curry rice joint where, if you didn't try it before, the pork chop curry rice will knock your socks off. But don't have seconds, because your real destination is a couple of short blocks up the street at Old Tiong Bahru Bak Kut Teh (Blk 58 Seng Poh Rd #01-31) where you should treat yourself to a peppery bowl of thier namesake pork bone soup classic along with a side of succulently braised pig trotter and a pot of gongfu tea – it’s an old neighborhood institution, with a crowd almost anytime of the day, so you know it’s good! 

Or head down Seng Poh Lane to Por Kee Eating House (69 Seng Poh Ln.) where, if you find yourself with a small group for lunch or dinner, you should grab a table for some excellent cze char specialties like their coffee ribs (for which they are famous), a plate of crunchy cereal prawns or a steamed fish in a sour broth. Skip the air con dining room and grab an outdoor table by the car park overlooked by spiral staircases of old-school HDB low-rises. Snub-tailed stray cats will wander the lot as cooling breezes flutter your table cloth. Within minutes you'll feel you've left glittering Singapore for somewhere culturally richer.

Tiong Bahru is one of those neighborhoods in Singapore where old and new triangulate into a well-balance blend. She's Asian-old meets neo-bohemian, where you can taste good wines and artesan breads while simultaneously watching the past stand still. And that's one Den of Beauties whose beauty has stood the test of time.

FoodWalk: Katong - Lots’a laksa and lots more.

To many, East Coast Road in Singapore’s Katong neighborhood is just another bustling strip of old shophouses and new construction. But, in fact it’s a densely concentrated museum of Peranakan history and architecture, and the battleground for one of the nation’s great wars – food wars, that is.

If you’re driving, park at Katong Village, the old Joo Chiat Police Station. Start your foodwalk at the nearby overpass across East Coast Road, making sure to stop in the middle for a good (and possibly last) look at the former Katong Bakery & Confectionary, lovingly known as  “Red House” Bakery (75 E. Coast Rd.). For over 80 years it was famous for its Swiss rolls, curry puffs and Singapore’s first multi-tiered Westerns style wedding cake. Closed since 2003, whether it will be restored or removed remains to be seen.

At the bottom of the overpass you are entering the “laksa war zone,” a historical battleground between three principal food establishments, each claiming to be the original makers of the Nonya style laksa. Often referred to as “Katong laksa” it is the laksa standard in these parts, characterized by a heavy fish and coconut-based curry gravy, sliced fish cake, fresh prawns and short-cut noodles, eliminating the need for chopsticks to supplement a spoon.

Sample this style of Singapore’s most popular soup by turning left and crossing over Ceylon Road to Famous 49 Katong Laksa (49 E. Coast Rd.). Old schoolers will avoid the modern addition of raw cockles, opting for the original rich spicy flavor garnished only by a dollop of chili paste and minced laksa (screwpine) leaves.

Famous 49's classic Katong Laksa

At Famous 49 you can’t go wrong – but not so fast – because just across the street is another player from the laksa wars: 328 “Famous” Katong Laksa (see image at top of post). Many argue that this is the best, and certainly the most popular. You have to try it, too, to compare to the others and become a battle-hardened laksa warrior yourself.

But you're still not done, because just across the road, inside Roxy Square, is Marine Parade Laksa a/k/a “The Original Katong Laksa” (01-64 Roxy Square) – once run at the site of the present Famous 49 by laksa master “Janggut” (so named due to long hairs growing from a mole on his chin). Whose was the original Katong Laksa? Whose is best? The debate raged for years, with each establishment insisting theirs was the real McCoy until eventually reaching détente. If you ask me, they are all crazy-good, especially if no evaporated milk shortcuts have been taken like in some inferior laksa joints around Singapore. Today each vendor here has a loyal following of customers who won’t go anywhere else. So now YOU be the judge....

It is only fair to say that Janggut's is actually the true original Katong laksa leader.

Walk up Ceylon Road to Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple (19 Ceylon Road). This Elephant God temple – one of Singapore’s tallest – dates back to 1875. Passing through the five-tiered tower you’ll enter a cool, peaceful respite, replete with ornate carvings and art.

Back at East Coast Road make a left, heading in the direction you came. Continue to Kim Choo Kueh Chang (109 E. Coast Road), an eclectic store specializing in Peranakan treats like Nonya kueh (sweet soft rice cakes of vivid greens, pinks and yellows), Nonya rice dumplings and pastries.

Next-door is Rumah Bebe (113 E. Coast Road) where you’ll browse authentic Peranakan arts and crafts, learn the art of Peranakan beading and even take nonya-style cooking classes. This restored Peranakan store/museum/artists gallery was once Tay Buan Guan shop – a 1920’s shophouse turned popular department store.

At the corner, cross Joo Chiat Road then cross East Coast Road and continue left to block 150. Down the side street is a row of conserved terrace houses in pastel colors (150 E. Coast Rd.). It’s hard to believe that these attractive single story bungalows were once waterfront homes. They were built above ground to protect against high tides, marking the location of where sea met land in old Singapore.

Continue toward Still Road, past the towering arched roof of Church of the Holy Family (200 E. Coast Rd.) until you reach the second 328 Katong Laksa (216 E. Coast Rd.) where, if you didn’t already, you should have yet another helping of this magnificent Straits Chinese staple to further compare the noticeable differences in taste and texture between the competition. After slurping down a bowl, you are at the turn-around point in your foodwalk (and possibly in your gastronomic fortitude for the day).

A couple of doors back from where you came is the Katong Antique House (208 E. Coast Rd.) where you can dig around the many Peranakan artifacts and decorations in this authentically-decorated Straits Chinese storefront.

Then wander to the corner of Chapel Road and the traditional Chin Mee Chin Confectionary (204 E. Coast Rd.) where the cream puffs are like pillows and the Peranakan-style coffee is superb. The gentle sweet flavors will ease the lingering burn in your mouth and soak up the laksa splashing around in your stomach. Which means you will be able to eat a little more.

Mary's Corner tao kwa pau

Which is why you should head back down East Coast Road to discover the wonders of tao kwa pau; a delicate envelope of bean curd skin stuffed with minced pork, eggs, fishcakes and crunchy vegetables then doused with a rich brown duck sauce and a dollop of chili spice for just a mild jump. Beneath the green awning of the 126 Beer Garden Foodcourt (216 E. Coast Rd.) (Original) Tao Kwa Pau/Duck Rice will give an old school example of this popular dish.

The sign is quick to call itself as the “original” since across the street in Ali Baba Eating House (125 E. Coast Rd.) sits Mary’s Corner Tao Kwa Pau in the former’s original location. Sound familiar? Cross over and try their claim to fame as well. You will be surprised at the differences between the two seemingly identical dishes. For me, Mary's Corner was the best.

Finally, shift your gustatory gears to decadence and sample fine chocolate truffles or other desserts across the street at Moshie Bakes Brasserie. New last year their chocolates and pastries are accompanied by a shared-space bakery for fresh breads and a cafe in the back where you can enjoy your sweets or order additional savories. What better way to end a great foodwalk?

By the end of your journey you will see that the face of Katong is shifting, but the culture of it is not. Old shops and food stalls give way to modern ones who conduct business the same way as always – locally. The new I12 Katong Mall appears to gentify the area, but inside it's very food-centric, with a high density of eating establishments including a very fine food court -- modern, yes, but retaining the spirit of this food-focused neighborhood, just like always. So despite the appearance of progress overtaking history, the more things change in Katong the more they remain the same. Which is an important phenomenon in ever-evolving Singapore, where cultural treasures like Katong may be able to withstand the tides of change.

Joo Chiat Foodwalk - Wandering the tasty trail!

The main event at Joo Chiat Prawn Mee

Joo Chiat in Singapore’s East Coast is all about food, which naturally makes it one of my favorite neighborhoods on this island of culinary treasures. Originally developed for growing coconuts and spices, it became a getaway for the wealthy in the 1920s. Now it’s a national heritage conservation area, with some of Singapore’s finest pre-war architecture and shophouses. And fantastic food. So take a two hour foodwalk for a little taste of some of the best of the best.

Geylang Serai Food Center

Begin your trip exiting the Paya Labar MRT station. And come hungry, because you’re not just touring a fascinating neighborhood, you’re foodwalking, so you're going to eat. Cross Sims Avenue, walk to Changi Road and turn left to stroll past the Malay Village, a collection of kampong huts and rundown bungalows housing souvenir treasures. Next door is the massive Gelang Serai Food Center, consisting of both wet market and excellent hawker center. Grab a cup of  kopi to start your day and stroll around reading about the history of the area on many posters and murals upstairs. But then, at Geylang Serai/Joo Chiat intersection, cross the street onto Joo Chiat Road. Welcome to food heaven.

The street is lined with shops ranging from bicycles, household supplies, clinics and, of course, restaurants. On the left near the corner of Joo Chiat Terrace you’ll come to Kway Guan Huat Coffeeshop (95 Joo Chiat Rd.). If it’s the weekend you’ll see in the open air storefront, a few old guys standing over hot griddles, dabbing dough to make popiah skins – those paper thin wrappers for Hokkien-style spring rolls. With a handful of loose, wiggling dough they touch it on the griddle and pull it back. The sheen which sticks to the hot surface cooks for a couple of seconds, transforming into the skin. The critical element to truly excellent popiah is the skin and these guys make it look so easy, but it requires a skilled hand to touch with just the right pressure and twist of the wrist to get the perfect thickness and texture.  

Zita Quek

Next door the popiah itself is made, with a slather of mashed garlic and soy syrup beneath a delicately cooked melange of turnip, carrots, prawns, egg, crispy dough bits and crushed peanuts. It’s all wrapped, stretched and rolled tight in the featherweight skins and cut like a sushi roll by – if you’re lucky – Zita Quek, the second generation owner who, with her infectious smile, has been making them here for over forty years. And when you taste them you will understand why all the fuss.

Across the street at the Masjid Khalid mosque you can peek into a no-frills, working man’s temple before heading to Sha Zah Confectionery (105 Joo Chiat Rd.) for Malay curry puffs. Unlike those ubiquitous half-moon versions, these are flat, flaky layers of pastry enveloping savory mutton, chicken or other fillings, handmade from scratch right there and sold over an open counter on the sidewalk. It's best not to look all too closely in the kitchen out back, because the amount of oil in the savory mutton filling will make your cardiologist double his rates. But try a fresh one warm from the oven and you'll want take more home so when you wake in the middle of the night craving it, they’ll be there.

The curry puffs are definitively not dietetic at Sha Zah.

Work off your snack at Changi Junk Store (125 Joo Chiat Rd.), where you can squeeze around thirty years’ worth of Chinese furniture, pottery, clocks and random items including a dried sawfish snout. It’s a cluttered treasure trove of, well, junk that is somehow alluring to sift through. The store’s name is well-suited.

The Lotus Shophouses

At the corner of Joo Chiat Place make a left. This street is lined with old Peranakan shophouses hugging the sidewalks and precarious open rainwater trenches. Local businesses mix with little restaurants and residences in this mixed area. At Everitt Road sits the Lotus Shophouse Collection, a tidy row of white shophouse residences, each with identical shuttered doors and windows and symmetrical, raised relief tiles reminiscent of old Peranakan architecture. In fact it's a row of attached condos which on their other side form and internal courtyard oasis of grassy lawn and palm trees. 

At Fei Fei - this is all you need to know.

Across the street is the Sin Wah Coffeeshop (62 Joo Chiat Place) housing the Fei Fei Noodle stall and, interestingly, just next door is the flagship Fei Fei Coffeeshop -- both of  which serve some of the most well-respected wanton mee in old-school hawker rooster bowls. Ask for chili sauce with your noodles; it will come in a Chinese spoon resting on top. Stir it all together, pulling the liquid in the bottom of the bowl throughout the perfectly al dente noodles. And don’t forget to order the wanton soup on the side. The minced pork wantons with a perfect little prawn inside float in a delicate broth. This meal is as good as it gets – for about $5 – so slurp your noodles loudly! If you like noodles (and who reading this doesn't?), you'll love Fei Fei.

Much as you will want to order another bowl at Fei Fei, don’t. Because just a few doors back toward Joo Chiat Road is Kim Choo Kueh Chang (60 Joo Chiat Pl.). Sample their classic Nonya bak chang dumplings – glutinous rice pyramids wrapped in bamboo leaves and steamed – containing treasures of pork, chestnuts, mushrooms, salted egg and soy. 

Making Bak Chang rice dumplings.

Inside they're making them fresh by hand, scooping the filling from large bowls, stuffing them in the sticky rice, and folding them artfully into perfect pyramids, large and small. Variations of fillings are marked by colored ribbons and you’ll want to buy a box of mini-dumplings for another midnight snack.

Continuing back toward Joo Chiat Road, turn left onto Tembling Road and stroll the neighborhood. At Koon Seng Road hang a right and pass rows of old Peranakan shophouses adorned with colorful facades and tiles. Some of these residences are renovated; others not, but they're all are authentic, with beautiful tiles, plaster reliefs and gentle, pastel colors. Don't miss this picturesque little block. 

Go left and continue down Joo Chiat Road, passing Chinese herbal clinics, great restaurants and countless local storefronts. At Joo Chiat Lane gaze up at the dragons on the corner for more of Singapore’s architectural past. In fact all through this neighborhood you'll notice old architecture and a sense of old local culture continuing on in the face of modern change. 

Pure, whipped D-24 durian for the puffs

Old meets new as you approach bustling East Coast Road. But first you’ll come to Puteri Mas Durian Puffs (475 Joo Chiat Rd) – perhaps the best place to reexamine your feelings about the king of fruit. Here they fill delicate choux pastry (used for profiteroles) with creamy durian and chill it. That's it -- durian and delicate pastry. Just two bites finishes this treat as the sweetness of the choux mingles with the subtle brie-and-garlic flavor of unadulterated, creamy fruit. Think you hate durian? Think again.

A few steps further and you’ve reached East Coast Road in the heart of Katong and the end of this foodwalk (watch for my upcoming Foodwalkers posting on that fabulous strip of laksa heaven). From here you can head back, perhaps -- if you're still hungry -- stopping at Joo Chiat Prawn Mee (15 Crane Rd.) along the way. Their perfect noodles, sweet, tender prawns and magical liquid sauce that pulls it all together will make you swoon over this unassuming little hawker stall hidden off the beaten path.

Or save it for a future foodwalk – I’ll lead the way – because there’s so much more amazing food to fall in love with in Joo Chiat!