FoodWalk: Katong - Lots’a laksa and lots more.

To many, East Coast Road in Singapore’s Katong neighborhood is just another bustling strip of old shophouses and new construction. But, in fact it’s a densely concentrated museum of Peranakan history and architecture, and the battleground for one of the nation’s great wars – food wars, that is.

If you’re driving, park at Katong Village, the old Joo Chiat Police Station. Start your foodwalk at the nearby overpass across East Coast Road, making sure to stop in the middle for a good (and possibly last) look at the former Katong Bakery & Confectionary, lovingly known as  “Red House” Bakery (75 E. Coast Rd.). For over 80 years it was famous for its Swiss rolls, curry puffs and Singapore’s first multi-tiered Westerns style wedding cake. Closed since 2003, whether it will be restored or removed remains to be seen.

At the bottom of the overpass you are entering the “laksa war zone,” a historical battleground between three principal food establishments, each claiming to be the original makers of the Nonya style laksa. Often referred to as “Katong laksa” it is the laksa standard in these parts, characterized by a heavy fish and coconut-based curry gravy, sliced fish cake, fresh prawns and short-cut noodles, eliminating the need for chopsticks to supplement a spoon.

Sample this style of Singapore’s most popular soup by turning left and crossing over Ceylon Road to Famous 49 Katong Laksa (49 E. Coast Rd.). Old schoolers will avoid the modern addition of raw cockles, opting for the original rich spicy flavor garnished only by a dollop of chili paste and minced laksa (screwpine) leaves.

Famous 49's classic Katong Laksa

At Famous 49 you can’t go wrong – but not so fast – because just across the street is another player from the laksa wars: 328 “Famous” Katong Laksa (see image at top of post). Many argue that this is the best, and certainly the most popular. You have to try it, too, to compare to the others and become a battle-hardened laksa warrior yourself.

But you're still not done, because just across the road, inside Roxy Square, is Marine Parade Laksa a/k/a “The Original Katong Laksa” (01-64 Roxy Square) – once run at the site of the present Famous 49 by laksa master “Janggut” (so named due to long hairs growing from a mole on his chin). Whose was the original Katong Laksa? Whose is best? The debate raged for years, with each establishment insisting theirs was the real McCoy until eventually reaching détente. If you ask me, they are all crazy-good, especially if no evaporated milk shortcuts have been taken like in some inferior laksa joints around Singapore. Today each vendor here has a loyal following of customers who won’t go anywhere else. So now YOU be the judge....

It is only fair to say that Janggut's is actually the true original Katong laksa leader.

Walk up Ceylon Road to Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple (19 Ceylon Road). This Elephant God temple – one of Singapore’s tallest – dates back to 1875. Passing through the five-tiered tower you’ll enter a cool, peaceful respite, replete with ornate carvings and art.

Back at East Coast Road make a left, heading in the direction you came. Continue to Kim Choo Kueh Chang (109 E. Coast Road), an eclectic store specializing in Peranakan treats like Nonya kueh (sweet soft rice cakes of vivid greens, pinks and yellows), Nonya rice dumplings and pastries.

Next-door is Rumah Bebe (113 E. Coast Road) where you’ll browse authentic Peranakan arts and crafts, learn the art of Peranakan beading and even take nonya-style cooking classes. This restored Peranakan store/museum/artists gallery was once Tay Buan Guan shop – a 1920’s shophouse turned popular department store.

At the corner, cross Joo Chiat Road then cross East Coast Road and continue left to block 150. Down the side street is a row of conserved terrace houses in pastel colors (150 E. Coast Rd.). It’s hard to believe that these attractive single story bungalows were once waterfront homes. They were built above ground to protect against high tides, marking the location of where sea met land in old Singapore.

Continue toward Still Road, past the towering arched roof of Church of the Holy Family (200 E. Coast Rd.) until you reach the second 328 Katong Laksa (216 E. Coast Rd.) where, if you didn’t already, you should have yet another helping of this magnificent Straits Chinese staple to further compare the noticeable differences in taste and texture between the competition. After slurping down a bowl, you are at the turn-around point in your foodwalk (and possibly in your gastronomic fortitude for the day).

A couple of doors back from where you came is the Katong Antique House (208 E. Coast Rd.) where you can dig around the many Peranakan artifacts and decorations in this authentically-decorated Straits Chinese storefront.

Then wander to the corner of Chapel Road and the traditional Chin Mee Chin Confectionary (204 E. Coast Rd.) where the cream puffs are like pillows and the Peranakan-style coffee is superb. The gentle sweet flavors will ease the lingering burn in your mouth and soak up the laksa splashing around in your stomach. Which means you will be able to eat a little more.

Mary's Corner tao kwa pau

Which is why you should head back down East Coast Road to discover the wonders of tao kwa pau; a delicate envelope of bean curd skin stuffed with minced pork, eggs, fishcakes and crunchy vegetables then doused with a rich brown duck sauce and a dollop of chili spice for just a mild jump. Beneath the green awning of the 126 Beer Garden Foodcourt (216 E. Coast Rd.) (Original) Tao Kwa Pau/Duck Rice will give an old school example of this popular dish.

The sign is quick to call itself as the “original” since across the street in Ali Baba Eating House (125 E. Coast Rd.) sits Mary’s Corner Tao Kwa Pau in the former’s original location. Sound familiar? Cross over and try their claim to fame as well. You will be surprised at the differences between the two seemingly identical dishes. For me, Mary's Corner was the best.

Finally, shift your gustatory gears to decadence and sample fine chocolate truffles or other desserts across the street at Moshie Bakes Brasserie. New last year their chocolates and pastries are accompanied by a shared-space bakery for fresh breads and a cafe in the back where you can enjoy your sweets or order additional savories. What better way to end a great foodwalk?

By the end of your journey you will see that the face of Katong is shifting, but the culture of it is not. Old shops and food stalls give way to modern ones who conduct business the same way as always – locally. The new I12 Katong Mall appears to gentify the area, but inside it's very food-centric, with a high density of eating establishments including a very fine food court -- modern, yes, but retaining the spirit of this food-focused neighborhood, just like always. So despite the appearance of progress overtaking history, the more things change in Katong the more they remain the same. Which is an important phenomenon in ever-evolving Singapore, where cultural treasures like Katong may be able to withstand the tides of change.

Playing with his food – a day off with Chuck Hughes

Chuck Hughes is a fun guy. Bright, smiling and a little bit loud, he’s one of those guys you don’t expect to look in person like he looks on TV. Maybe that’ because he looks too good on TV, where he hosts Chuck’s Day Off on the Asian Food Channel and across other food networks around the world. He has a baby face, neatly trimmed hair and a wide, toothy smile. I expect that if one of Chuck’s long-lost childhood friends bumped into him unexpectedly, he would say Chuck hasn’t changed a bit. He’s that kind of guy, grown-up but still boyishly exuberant. And after just a few minutes in the kitchen with him I found myself feeling that way, too – it seems Chuck is contagious.

Chuck Hughes on his "shell phone."

Chuck’s recent visit to Singapore was hosted by the Asian Food Channel and American Express, as part of their Celebrity Chef Series, which aims to showcase extraordinary chefs from around the world to Singapore’s hungry enthusiasts.  In keeping with AFC’s outstanding reputation for airing not just high quality food programming but also limiting it to chefs with real passion, only the most fervent cooks are included in the series. So far this year Mark McEwan turned up the heat with European cuisine, and Adrian Richardson made perfect cuts to mouth watering meats. So it’s only natural that Chuck, with his youthful energy and effervescent sense of humor, would be asked to show some skills. And did he ever.

From the moment he took to the range in the beautiful AFC Studio at Orchard Central, Chuck glowed with energy and enthusiasm. His demeanor was relaxed and casual and he made a few jokes before addressing the mis en place on the counter before him. Next to small dishes filled with chilies, onions and other herbs and veg sat two Atlantic Lobsters, flown in live from Canada. And so he started to cook, slicing, chopping, squeezing and pureeing to make a sauce for his first dish, Jerked Atlantic lobster; his own riff on North East shellfish cooking by adding Jamaican flavor and fire.

He talked and laughed the whole time, and with each ingredient he took a moment to examine it, discuss its fine qualities, revere it. Simple items took on great importance, like limes which he squeezed then, after smelling the skin, decided to zest into the dish “because it just smells so good.” He extolled the often-disregarded wonder of celery leaves – "don't just toss them in a stock or throw 'em away" – before adding them to his puree. He inhaled the aroma of fresh rosemary and marveled at the beauty of a paper-thin slice of fresh ginger. That’s the kind of passion this guy has.

Jerked Atlantic Lobster

Suddenly the lobster – perfectly cooked to translucent – was done, plated and the fiery jerk sauce poured over it. The taste was a fine interplay of sweet shellfish and mild yet pronounced tropical spice; not an overpowering heat masking the tender meat, as I half-expected. But balanced and thought out. Gorgeous to all senses.

Seared Carpaccio with Homemade Potato Chips and Lemon Aioli.

 Watching Chuck cook is like watching a really big kid play with his food. He was as comfortable with a perfectly-marbled tenderloin – from which he made Pan Seared Carpaccio to go with his Homemade Potato Chips – as he might have once been with Lego. His movements were second nature and precise. His Japanese knives were like extensions of his hands, his nose the barometer of what he would do with whatever he happened to be holding. He admired the smoke when he seared the beef. He sang and laughed as he whipped oil into aioli. This guy wasn’t working – he was playing.

He rolled dense chocolate ganache into soft pearl tapioca and formed them into tiny balls with all the excitement of a kid in a snowball fight. Dropping them in hot oil, he transformed them into delicate arancini for dessert. 

Chocolate Tapioca Arancini

And he plated all of his food with creative folly; a little of this, maybe some of that, “oh, and these look good; let’s toss some of them on, too!” And each dish delivered that casual, playful sensation in the mouth – borne from the hands of a talented man with the spirit of a kid and the happiness of someone doing what he loves to do most – cook. 

Chuck grew up in Québec speaking mostly French and hanging out with the same childhood friends that he hangs out with today. He discovered the joy of cooking at a young age and eventually, at his mother's suggestion, attended culinary school at Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec and later worked his way through several of Montreal’s hottest restaurants. Eventually he and two of those best friends opened their own place, Garde Manager, a laid back eating joint with an open kitchen so he and his staff could join in on the fun out front. Having so much fun – and success – they opened another, Le Bremner, to solid bookings and lines out the door. In other words, this guy has made a life out of his favorite passion, and on his day off he has buddies come to the closed restaurant to cook and eat to loud music.

Chuck's favorite temp: 275.

This love of food is not just always on Chuck Hughes’ mind; it’s on his body, too. In line with modern kitchen culture, Chuck has some tattoos – okay, a lot of tattoos. So I asked him for a tour. And like a kid doing show & tell he started running through them, each with a story. There's a lobster crawling on his forearm, arugula on his wrist (bacon on the other) and lemon meringue pie on a triceps (“some of my favorite foods!”).  These are intermixed with the occasional skull, words (including “mom”) and still more food: pineapple on his shoulder, oysters on an arm and a potpourri of produce wrapping around his bicep. My favorite was his universal cooking temperature – 275° – inked on his forearm (“so I won’t forget”). Then he surprised the room by showing his newest tat: the AFC logo. He laughed, admitting it was black marker as a joke (“But I’m thinking of maybe making it permanent!”). I suggested an artichoke would be cool – he nodded slowly with a broad, toothy smile and asked to steal the idea. Dude, of course….

 

 It’s always fun to watch an accomplished chef like Chuck Hughes make such tasty food look so easy. His joy is genuine; his passion authentic. And that transfers, almost by osmosis, into serious cooking, styling and taste. Because despite his boyish charms, Chuck Hughes is no child in the kitchen, as Bobby Flay painfully discovered last year when Chuck beat him on Iron Chef America.  But as serious as Chuck's cooking is, at no time does this serious chef take himself too seriously. And that’s what the joy of cooking is all about.

 

Watch Chuck’s Day Off  every Monday - Friday at 11:00pm on the

 Asian Food Channel.

Westlake Restaurant: Back to basics, old-school style

Within the realm of coffeeshops and eating houses that anchor Singapore to high quality, local food one sometimes finds a place that is a cut above – usually older than most – and often overlooked by younger, well-heeled diners searching for the newest hotspot or longest queue. And one of those old joints is Westlake.

Westlake’s location on the second level void deck of a large HDB housing estate is uncommon. The void deck is lined on both sides with little shops – bicycle stores, hairdressers and local sundries for the residents of the towers looming above. There are also a few eating houses with local fare and even an Italian pizza/pasta joint. At the far end sits Westlake, a stronghold of the community for nearly forty years and known by informed foodies as a place to get some really special food.

There are so many good things to eat in this unassuming, pastel green establishment. Like the Sichuan Hot & Sour Soup. I stand by the theory that you can tell the quality of the Chinese restaurant simply by this dish. If it’s good, then the cook knows what he’s doing; if it’s bad, that losing streak will probably continue through the meal. And if it has that freshly opened, tinny flavor and sticky sheen of chemical preservatives, you are best to kindly ask for the check and flee, never to see the inside of the place again.

So when Westlake’s version was set before me I surreptitiously leaned in for a look. It was chock-full of classic ingredients, mushrooms, tofu, drips of egg and so much more. And the taste delivered everything its appearance promised. The flavors mischievously  wavered between a tickle of burn, the cleansing bite of sourness and a soft yet deliberate crunch of almost-sweet vegetable. Its silky base was free of any gelatinous, artificial texture. It was finished with a healthy dusting of white Chinese pepper and a swirl of sesame oil, lest one forget its Chengdu origin. It was the best I’ve had in Singapore.

Then there were the fried dumplings. Now I generally prefer steamed or boiled dumplings, with their smooth skins and moist, meaty insides. But at Westlake the fried dumplings are a must – unless you do not like golden brown skins that are crisped so perfectly you can feel their tensile surface before you even put one in your mouth, Your bite is a satisfying cracking into a light, porky filling blended with chives and ginger and a hint of garlic.  A dip in one of the sauces and the skin still holds its uncommon crispness while absorbing the dark soy and chili addition. Imagine the absolutely addictive texture of great sio bak roast pork – now imagine that same sensation in a dumpling. That’s what you have here. Pure heaven.

Next came a plate of Gong Bao Chicken which delivered more Sichuan flavors; a bit unusual for a restaurant which is decidedly not Sichuan. The dried chili’s were large and cut into healthy chunks, softened slightly in the wok and delivering a spice and smoke burn that was tempered by a tingling of glutinous rice wine vinegar in the sauce. The chicken was tender, contrasting nicely with the crunchy water chestnuts and strands of spring onion. This ain’t your usual “Kung Po Chicken” from your neighborhood HappyDragonGreatWall back in the States. This is the real deal, straight from owner Mr. Lim Long Law’s own background of favorite foods.

And speaking of favorite foods, the next dish, Kong Bak Pau was it; the cat’s meow and Westlake’s main event. It starts with a platter of lusciously braised pork belly with remarkably tender skin, a thin band of fat and soft, juicy meat, slathered with a rich dark soy-based sauce which you have to resist (or not!) just eating with a spoon.

Beside the platter is a pile of steamed buns. But not just any old steamed buns, alkaline buns, so pillowy and soft. The great noodle makers of Asia, most notably Japan, understand the benefits of alkalinity in their dough – a firmness to the noodle that enables it to keep its structure and texture even after floating in a hot bowl of ramen. It’s a magical construct for dough and at Westlake they’ve decided it’s not just for noodles anymore. The result is a bun that’s firm and springy with a tight, off-white skin and a dense, cushiony interior. It absorbs liquids effortlessly without becoming mushy or falling apart like a traditional bum -- the consummate delivery system for the oh-so-good pork and sauce. The Kong Bak Pau alone is worth the trip to Westlake and indeed is the main draw for those who know. But combine it with the other great dishes and, like me, lose your mind.

I could end here, hopefully leaving you drooling and dialing for a cab or, even better, an airplane ticket to get you here. But why stop now?

Because I would be remiss to disregard the gorgeous Chicken/Prawn Yam Basket, an interpretation perhaps of that much-loved creation of Chef and Heavenly King Hooi Kok Wai. A wonderful combination of flavors from land and sea, accented by crisp, delicate vegetables in a light sauce and encircled by crisp-fried, deliciously-starchy yam paste.

Then there was the Black Pepper Sri Lankan Crabs, drenched in piquant black pepper sauce that is tempered to just a subtle burn by first being sautéed in butter and soya. Again, balance is the guiding principle behind this dish, with the sweet chunks of barely-cooked crab waltzing delicately with the spicy sauce. Like Mozart for the mouth.

Steamed Bean Curd with Kang Kong came next. It’s the kind of dish you don’t expect to enjoy at first glance, but simply can’t help yourself once you taste it. Soft bean curd, cooked down to an opaque, gelatinous chowder supported small squares of steamed pumpkin and salted egg, all encircled by steamed greens. 

The flavor was delicate and satisfying, like silken tofu with added flavors, and texturally complete with the thick curd “glue” holding the dish together and merging the flavors into one. It was a good way to begin our gentle descent from the sky-high robustness of the dishes which preceded it.

The feast ended like any good Asian feast should: with a plate of soft noodles. The Chee Cheong Fun noodles were rolled up and doused with a smooth brown sauce and a scattering of sesame seeds. A dollop of slightly spicy sambal added a little umami burst to the otherwise soft bed of featherweight noodles that acted as a gentle comfort food finish.

The last item – as a savory dessert – was a bronzed, toothy Spring Onion & Chives Pancake which merged the savory flavors of the meal with a fresh, green sweetness from the onions and chives. It was crispy on the outside and soft and flaky inside, acting as the perfect closer to a memorable meal of old-school dining.

Westlake Restaurant

Queen’s Road

Block 4

#02-139

26004

6474 7283

Joo Chiat Foodwalk - Wandering the tasty trail!

The main event at Joo Chiat Prawn Mee

Joo Chiat in Singapore’s East Coast is all about food, which naturally makes it one of my favorite neighborhoods on this island of culinary treasures. Originally developed for growing coconuts and spices, it became a getaway for the wealthy in the 1920s. Now it’s a national heritage conservation area, with some of Singapore’s finest pre-war architecture and shophouses. And fantastic food. So take a two hour foodwalk for a little taste of some of the best of the best.

Geylang Serai Food Center

Begin your trip exiting the Paya Labar MRT station. And come hungry, because you’re not just touring a fascinating neighborhood, you’re foodwalking, so you're going to eat. Cross Sims Avenue, walk to Changi Road and turn left to stroll past the Malay Village, a collection of kampong huts and rundown bungalows housing souvenir treasures. Next door is the massive Gelang Serai Food Center, consisting of both wet market and excellent hawker center. Grab a cup of  kopi to start your day and stroll around reading about the history of the area on many posters and murals upstairs. But then, at Geylang Serai/Joo Chiat intersection, cross the street onto Joo Chiat Road. Welcome to food heaven.

The street is lined with shops ranging from bicycles, household supplies, clinics and, of course, restaurants. On the left near the corner of Joo Chiat Terrace you’ll come to Kway Guan Huat Coffeeshop (95 Joo Chiat Rd.). If it’s the weekend you’ll see in the open air storefront, a few old guys standing over hot griddles, dabbing dough to make popiah skins – those paper thin wrappers for Hokkien-style spring rolls. With a handful of loose, wiggling dough they touch it on the griddle and pull it back. The sheen which sticks to the hot surface cooks for a couple of seconds, transforming into the skin. The critical element to truly excellent popiah is the skin and these guys make it look so easy, but it requires a skilled hand to touch with just the right pressure and twist of the wrist to get the perfect thickness and texture.  

Zita Quek

Next door the popiah itself is made, with a slather of mashed garlic and soy syrup beneath a delicately cooked melange of turnip, carrots, prawns, egg, crispy dough bits and crushed peanuts. It’s all wrapped, stretched and rolled tight in the featherweight skins and cut like a sushi roll by – if you’re lucky – Zita Quek, the second generation owner who, with her infectious smile, has been making them here for over forty years. And when you taste them you will understand why all the fuss.

Across the street at the Masjid Khalid mosque you can peek into a no-frills, working man’s temple before heading to Sha Zah Confectionery (105 Joo Chiat Rd.) for Malay curry puffs. Unlike those ubiquitous half-moon versions, these are flat, flaky layers of pastry enveloping savory mutton, chicken or other fillings, handmade from scratch right there and sold over an open counter on the sidewalk. It's best not to look all too closely in the kitchen out back, because the amount of oil in the savory mutton filling will make your cardiologist double his rates. But try a fresh one warm from the oven and you'll want take more home so when you wake in the middle of the night craving it, they’ll be there.

The curry puffs are definitively not dietetic at Sha Zah.

Work off your snack at Changi Junk Store (125 Joo Chiat Rd.), where you can squeeze around thirty years’ worth of Chinese furniture, pottery, clocks and random items including a dried sawfish snout. It’s a cluttered treasure trove of, well, junk that is somehow alluring to sift through. The store’s name is well-suited.

The Lotus Shophouses

At the corner of Joo Chiat Place make a left. This street is lined with old Peranakan shophouses hugging the sidewalks and precarious open rainwater trenches. Local businesses mix with little restaurants and residences in this mixed area. At Everitt Road sits the Lotus Shophouse Collection, a tidy row of white shophouse residences, each with identical shuttered doors and windows and symmetrical, raised relief tiles reminiscent of old Peranakan architecture. In fact it's a row of attached condos which on their other side form and internal courtyard oasis of grassy lawn and palm trees. 

At Fei Fei - this is all you need to know.

Across the street is the Sin Wah Coffeeshop (62 Joo Chiat Place) housing the Fei Fei Noodle stall and, interestingly, just next door is the flagship Fei Fei Coffeeshop -- both of  which serve some of the most well-respected wanton mee in old-school hawker rooster bowls. Ask for chili sauce with your noodles; it will come in a Chinese spoon resting on top. Stir it all together, pulling the liquid in the bottom of the bowl throughout the perfectly al dente noodles. And don’t forget to order the wanton soup on the side. The minced pork wantons with a perfect little prawn inside float in a delicate broth. This meal is as good as it gets – for about $5 – so slurp your noodles loudly! If you like noodles (and who reading this doesn't?), you'll love Fei Fei.

Much as you will want to order another bowl at Fei Fei, don’t. Because just a few doors back toward Joo Chiat Road is Kim Choo Kueh Chang (60 Joo Chiat Pl.). Sample their classic Nonya bak chang dumplings – glutinous rice pyramids wrapped in bamboo leaves and steamed – containing treasures of pork, chestnuts, mushrooms, salted egg and soy. 

Making Bak Chang rice dumplings.

Inside they're making them fresh by hand, scooping the filling from large bowls, stuffing them in the sticky rice, and folding them artfully into perfect pyramids, large and small. Variations of fillings are marked by colored ribbons and you’ll want to buy a box of mini-dumplings for another midnight snack.

Continuing back toward Joo Chiat Road, turn left onto Tembling Road and stroll the neighborhood. At Koon Seng Road hang a right and pass rows of old Peranakan shophouses adorned with colorful facades and tiles. Some of these residences are renovated; others not, but they're all are authentic, with beautiful tiles, plaster reliefs and gentle, pastel colors. Don't miss this picturesque little block. 

Go left and continue down Joo Chiat Road, passing Chinese herbal clinics, great restaurants and countless local storefronts. At Joo Chiat Lane gaze up at the dragons on the corner for more of Singapore’s architectural past. In fact all through this neighborhood you'll notice old architecture and a sense of old local culture continuing on in the face of modern change. 

Pure, whipped D-24 durian for the puffs

Old meets new as you approach bustling East Coast Road. But first you’ll come to Puteri Mas Durian Puffs (475 Joo Chiat Rd) – perhaps the best place to reexamine your feelings about the king of fruit. Here they fill delicate choux pastry (used for profiteroles) with creamy durian and chill it. That's it -- durian and delicate pastry. Just two bites finishes this treat as the sweetness of the choux mingles with the subtle brie-and-garlic flavor of unadulterated, creamy fruit. Think you hate durian? Think again.

A few steps further and you’ve reached East Coast Road in the heart of Katong and the end of this foodwalk (watch for my upcoming Foodwalkers posting on that fabulous strip of laksa heaven). From here you can head back, perhaps -- if you're still hungry -- stopping at Joo Chiat Prawn Mee (15 Crane Rd.) along the way. Their perfect noodles, sweet, tender prawns and magical liquid sauce that pulls it all together will make you swoon over this unassuming little hawker stall hidden off the beaten path.

Or save it for a future foodwalk – I’ll lead the way – because there’s so much more amazing food to fall in love with in Joo Chiat!